How to Choose the Right Hat for Your Face Shape and Body Type

Finding the right hat for your Face & Body shape - Truffaux Hatmakers

How to Choose the Right Hat for Your Face Shape and Body Type

Different hats are designed for different faces and body shapes.

When someone walks into my hat shop, I know immediately which hats are going to look good on them. I observe their face shape (especially their jaw), their build, and the style and colour of their clothes. When you have fitted more than 100,000 hats, you can also see what size head they are, which is one of my fancy hat tricks.

I wrote this article years ago to help people work out the right hat, but honestly the easiest way is just to send me your photo. That is why people go to a hatmaker: it cuts through all the confusion and you get professional help.

The easiest path: send me a selfie and answer a few questions, and I can tell you exactly what will work. 
CLICK HERE TO START 

If you’d rather learn to do it yourself, I’ll teach you, so you can find the right hat on your own.

Step 1: Work Out Your Face Shape

Look at the diagrams in this guide. Which shaped face are you? If you’re confused, look in a mirror or take a selfie. If you fall between shapes, choose the one you like the most, and that will work. Focus on your jaw, as it determines face shape more than anything. Now write it down, and you are ready.

There Are No Real Rules When Wearing a Hat

Before we get into it, I want to suggest that there are no real rules. Wearing a hat is a game, an interplay of ideas to express yourself. If you’re experienced and know how to speak Hat, you don’t need this guide at all. If you are setting off on your early hat journeys, this will give you a map, help you make a better decision, and get you a hat you love.

The Four Basic Hat Shapes

It helps to understand that there are four basic hat crown shapes. Each has a distinctly different look and fit:

  1. Diamond crown: pinched at the front and flat across the top (American style)
  2. Domed crown: a smooth curved dome across the top, as in the  Riviera, Emporer, Provencale, Tiara, and Rollable Metropolitan
  3. Flat crown: flat-topped, like La Dolce Vita and the Boater 
  4. Centre dent crown: pinched sides leading into a centrefold through the middle (European style)

 

The Best Hat for Your Face Shape

Oval Face

Your face is perfect for most hats, so you can wear whatever you like. Both men and women have the full range of choice, so follow your heart and choose the hat that excites you most. If you’re a beginner, choose the one you would feel most comfortable putting on in the morning. A dramatic hat is more likely to stay in your cupboard.

Square Face

With your strong jaw, it works best to choose an equally strong hat. Ideally, the width of the crown mirrors the width of your jaw, so the hat and your head become balanced. A low-set diamond crown like the King, Kerouac, Morpheus, Creme Brulee, and Indigo will look great.

Slightly taller diamond crowns work too, especially if you are tall. Look at The King, Mr Natural, Cuban, Ironside, Blue Valentine, Wanderer, Havana, and Diamond Fino. If you are after a wider brim, then consider the fedoras like The Iconoclast, Montechristi, Cuban and Captain Starlight.

Men: avoid rounded crowns, as they will feel chunky. 
Women: a rounded crown can look soft, charming and very feminine.

Oblong Face

With a longer face, you need to balance your features. You have a nice strong jaw, so you can wear the full range of hats. The only thing to watch is head height. If your head is very tall, diamond crowns give the hat enough room to sit deeply on your head. If your head is not very tall, you can also wear a lower diamond crown like the Cuban.

It is possible to lengthen a crown with a little steam, but you need to ask for this when you order.

If you are shorter, steer towards centre dent crowns such as the Casablanca or Caribbean. And generally, if you’re taller, a wider-brimmed fedora is better, at least 5cm wide.

Heart Face

With a more pointed jaw and a wide forehead, you need to balance your face with a softer crown. Centre dents work best, mirroring the shape of your jaw and creating nice symmetry. All the classic centre dent hats will suit you well (the Casablanca, for example). Diamond crowns look good too, but don’t go too wide unless you’re rather tall.

Ideally, avoid very wide brims, or they will make you look top-heavy.


Diamond Face

Your face is chiselled and balanced, and much like an oval face, you can wear any hat you like. The more angular diamond crowns will be the most stylish, and centre dents will soften your features if you wish. Very short brims tend to make you look a bit pinched, so make sure the brim is 5cm or over.


Round Face

With a wider face, you need a wider hat. The crown needs to be balanced with your jaw, so avoid more pointed shapes like the centre dent. Diamond crowns all look good and provide crisp angles to play off against the roundness.

Avoid rounded crowns, as they accentuate a round face, although on women they can look soft and charming.

Tip: angling your hat has a greater impact than you’d think, so experiment to see what looks best on you.

 

Truffaux Waikiki fino display

How Your Body Shape Affects Your Hat Choice

When it comes to body shape, a lot of advice gets very confusing, so I’ll keep it simple. Matching the hat to your face is still the most important thing. These basic principles will help you avoid the more obvious mistakes.

Tall

If you’re tall, you can wear a bigger hat, meaning a higher crown and a wider brim. A tiny short brim will look disproportionate and a little comical. Hats make you taller, so if you don’t want to accentuate your height, choose a lower-crowned hat.

Short

Avoid very wide brims, as they will overshadow you and make you look smaller. Hats always make you look taller, so you can play with this and add extra height by choosing a taller crown. If you are very little, just be careful about overdoing it.

Curvy

With a little extra width, choose a wider hat to balance things out. A short brim will just make you look funny. A mid to wide brim will be the most flattering. When you see a beautiful curvy mama in a big curvy hat, it just looks great.

Skinny

Choose a hat that is not too wide, and you will look better. Veer away from heavy, big hats, as they will be too much for your build. The Iconoclast would be completely overwhelming, while the Casablanca Trilby will be flattering.

Combining Face Shape and Body Type

Most people are a combination of different face and body shapes, so stick with the basics and trust your heart.

If it’s still confusing, drop me an email with a photo and I’ll help you out. When I see your face and body, it is obvious what will work. Or you can book an online hat fitting and we’ll work things out properly.

Most people will be a combination of a different face and body shapes, so stick with the basics and trust your heart. 

If it is confusing you, then  with a photo, and I will help you out. When i see your face and body, it is obvious what will work. Alternatively, you can book in for an online fitting and we can work things out properly.

Already know your shape and want a Panama? 
First read How to Spot a Real Panama Hat so you buy a genuine one.

Love,
Truffaux

 

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