What is a genuine Panama hat?

What is a genuine Panama hat?

How to Spot a Real Panama Hat: A Beginner’s Guide to Fakes, Grades and Fair Prices

 


Buying a genuine Panama hat can be tough for a beginner. The Panama is an exquisite artisanal art form with a long and revered heritage, and it is frequently copied and faked in substandard form. Any white hat can be called a “Panama,” which is downright deceptive marketing.

I love the Ecuadorians. They are beautiful people with generous hearts, and they cannot afford to mount international legal battles to stop the trickery, so it goes on. The only way to work out what’s real is to look into the details. Here is what we look for at Truffaux, and what you should look for too.


1. Fake Panama Hats: Polypropylene, Paper Straw, Toyo and Shantung

These are the most prevalent fakes. They are machine-made across Asia in vast numbers, very cheaply. You’ll see them sold as “artificial straw,” polypropylene, “paper straw,” Toyo or Shantung.

All of these hats breathe terribly. They make your head smell and sweat, and they are damn uncomfortable. Paper hats can sweat themselves apart, and manufacturers often coat the paper in plastic to make it last longer. Now you have a plastic bag on your head, a terrible idea in hot weather.

How to tell: Check the materials. If the seller doesn’t specify them, you can be sure it’s plastic. If the hat costs less than $100, you can be very sure it is not a genuine Panama hat.

2. Other Straw Hats Passed Off as Panamas

Weavers in China, Mexico, Ecuador, Bolivia and even Brazil make straw hats. Sometimes they use the same straw as a Panama (toquilla, Carludovica palmata), but usually it’s an inferior alternative, and the preparation and weaving are substandard too. The Chinese have an ancient hat-weaving tradition, but the straw they use is coarse, scratchy, easily broken and dyes poorly.

How to tell: Unless the seller explicitly states it is made in Ecuador, it is not a Panama hat. Some retailers will lie about origin, so the only way to tell is the pricing and the shape of the weaving.

On a genuine Panama, the centre of the crown spirals out from a point. If you see that, it is most likely a Panama. Unfortunately, some makers copy the shape of the weave to produce a high-quality fake, so it gets tricky. As a rule of thumb, if you’re buying from a retailer that sells many unrelated fashion products, it is unlikely to be a Panama.

3. Low-Grade Panama Hats: Handwoven, but Not Worth Owning

This is where it gets even more misleading. When hats are handwoven in toquilla straw, they are sorted into grades and priced accordingly. You can buy a Panama in Ecuador for $25, but these hats are not worth owning. They are what the trade calls grade zero: loose, erratic, lumpy and coarse, woven rapidly and in large numbers by inexperienced weavers.

To hide the imperfections, the hats are bleached heavily until they are a rubbery, luminous mass, then dyed an ivory colour and passed off as a bargain to unsuspecting tourists and online buyers.

How to tell:

  • A rough “natural edge.” The straw is roughly woven back into itself to finish the brim. These hats always fall apart: the brim frays and the hat disintegrates.
  • Brisa weave. Typically these hats are a Brisa weave, a light crosshatch pattern. It’s the fastest and cheapest to weave, and also the weakest (although a good Brisa is a great work of art). A cheap Brisa will crack through the front pinch within weeks.
  • Glued crowns. Some manufacturers glue material into the crown to stop that cracking. It’s a cheap way of making a cheap weave last a bit longer.

Hats are like anything else: you get what you pay for.

4. Low-End Ecuadorian Drop Shippers

No doubt you’ve come across amazing “deals” online on Montecristi hats, finos and cheap Panama hats. There are no legal standards for Panama hat quality, so sellers can say whatever they like and convince you with a lovely picture that you’re getting a bargain.

Most of these businesses simply buy up cheap hats and ship them. They don’t know how to style or fit a hat, or how it will look on your head. If you don’t care how it looks on your head, at least you save some money.


Quick Checklist: Is It a Genuine Panama Hat?

  • Made in Ecuador, stated explicitly
  • Toquilla straw, with the material clearly specified
  • Priced realistically (under $100 is a red flag)
  • Crown weave spirals out from the centre
  • Tidy, finished brim edge, not a rough natural edge
  • Seller specialises in hats and can fit and style them for you

 

Why Truffaux Panama Hats Cost a Bit More

Every hatmaker works to a different price and quality point. We’ve been fortunate to design beautiful, practical Panama hats that people love to own. They cost a bit more, but for the next ten years your investment always looks good and you love to wear it. To me, that is what really matters.

Now that you know what a genuine Panama hat looks like, the next step is finding one that suits you.
Read our guide: Finding the Right Hat for Your Face & Body Shape

 

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